A little Bengali China

On my first trip to Kolkata, a friend strongly recommended me a visit to the place called China Town in Kolkata. From travel magazines, he had gathered some impressive details which, albeit painted a picture of imagination quite astonishing. Instead of other touristy places, I preferred to make a round of this China Town and here is what I went through.

First I boarded a taxi which kept me enticed from the moment I landed in Kolkata. Peppy young yellow giant with a blue strap in centre of the body of Ambassador Grand (BS III, 1500 DSL-5S) was nothing less than the king of the roads of Kolkata as its drives also displayed remarkable skills of dominating the road and cutting lanes with incessant honking, making every soul feel its presence.

My excitement was eroding with my taxi paving its way through narrow lanes of China Town. Not exactly a slum but a typical unorganised, unplanned colony with small polluting factories of metal casting and scrap – a quintessential area of every town of India. Bigger disappointment- couldn’t see any Chinese around but only Chinese restaurants and bars around every corner.

Giving last breath to my hope, I asked for the best restaurant and there I was, Big Boss. The place indeed was big. I climbed up to one of its restaurants on Monday afternoon where I was the only guest. I was greeted by a man in black suit who looked like a Chinese. But it was difficult to say as there were many Northeast Indians and even migrants from Nepal look alike and I really can’t tell who belongs to which part.

On settling down on my seat I was offered a menu which put aside but straight away asked, “What is your best dish? And is it authentic Chinese or Indianised?” the reply with a smile was not surprising as the captain said, “Sir, it’s Indianised Chinese.” I asked if there is any place which serves authentic Chinese? And he kindly shook his head.

After a while I tried to strike a conversation with him. His name was Robert, a Christian Chinese from China. And it sounded like worth a trip to me.

It was fourth generation of Robert, migrated from China. He could not put the number of Chinese living in the locality but he said that the population is now shrinking as the young generation is moving to other places of India in search of better opportunities. I forgot to ask him if he could speak Chinese but he had told me that it is no more of China in China Town. They speak Bengali, Hindi and English. They eat what all Indians eat, whether it is Chaat or bread-butter or Idli-sambar. They eat daal-chaaval and roti-sabzi. They celebrate Durga Puja, Diwali, Holi, Christmas and also Chinese festivals.

Robert still has relatives in China and they are still in touch but an interesting fact – International calling cards are cheaper in China and hence, relatives call him more often than him calling them. He has never been to China and so he was indifferent on being asked if he ever missed his home in China? Without any emotions, he said, Kolkata was his home now. This is the place which has given him home, a citizenship and occupation. “I studied here, lived here all my life and we also vote. Chinese customs and food are still a small part of us but we are Indians.”

Another tip that my friend had given me was about visiting China Town for early morning authentic Chinese breakfast available only at 6am which gets over by 7am. Robert said that he attempted it only twice in his life but still couldn’t get the taste of it as very small proportions are made and consumed quickly.

I left Big Boss with a sense of content that Robert was not missing authentic Chinese food in China Town, so why should I?

However, Indianised Chinese food was too spicy for me at Big Boss unlike other Indians flocking it looking exactly for the same. I wonder if it is time to shift the sides!